Perhaps some of you may be wondering by now if I quit or left the game, having not posted anything in a while. I am here to reassure you, however, that work has continued, albeit at a slightly more lackadaisical pace. Fairing of the interior of the hull has blessedly been finished, after many hours of shoulder-burning, patience-testing scraping, sanding, sanding and scraping at all manners of awkward angles. The task of finding a willing second set of hands for the impending fiberglassing has proven a bit more tedious than the prior session, being that most of the prior help is now out of town.
So in the meantime, I've managed to make a whole mess of scuppers and two bulkhead panels from the leftover cedar planking. I cut the scuppers using the drill press, in order to get a nice curved end profile on each piece, with the intention of creating nice symmetrical ovals along the length of the inwales. Scuppers are a natural result of building traditional wood canvas canoes, the construction of which requires the hull be built upon a skeleton of horizontal ribs. The inwales are then secured to the inner face of the ribs, with the spaces between the ribs thus creating the scuppered effect. On a cedar strip canoe, they aren't necessary for constructive purposes, but rather lend a "traditional" look which I still prefer to a solid inwale. More importantly, though, is their useful functions of saving a bit of weight, providing lash down points, and allowing water to drain out when the canoe is dry docked upside down. Standing water on wood is bad juju, and scuppers are the golden antidote.
I've debated some about whether to add bulkheads (sealed compartments) at either end of the canoe, but for now they win out. Adding a little extra buoyancy and strength to a canoe of this length really is a no-brainer now that I really think about it; in the event of a capsize, it'll make it that much easier to recover and not be totally swamped. Also, the bow and stern of this design are a little on the short side (think in contrast to a canoe with the big, curved ends), and so to me seem they would be prone to taking on more water when traversing big waves. Having a little more lift at the ends would, in my theory, help keep the nose up and out of the water as the canoe descends one wave and into the next. Makes sense to me enough to do it! I'm considering adding some kind of watertight hatch, so the space inside can still be utilized for stowing a few essential items in times of lesser duress.
I've also taken the first step into the trim work, cutting and assembling the seat frames. I've been eagerly anticipating this moment, but have put it on hold until now for fear of getting ahead of myself and working myself out of a job, so to speak. I decided to make the seats from cherry, merely for the fact I love its appearance and workability, and also that it was on sale. I used good ol' fashioned mortise and tenon joints to join the seats together, the strongest and cleanest joint for this application. For being my first real stab at creating this type of joint, I was rather pleased to find they came out straight and tight fitting.
The fiberglass on the inner hull is going on tomorrow hopefully, and after a couple days for that to set up, it'll finally be time to go full bore into turning a floppy hull into a tailored, lean and mean lake-cruising machine. Actually, it's not a machine at all, nor is it likely to be lean (this won't be any passe, no-frills vessel), but you get my point of enthusiasm.
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Finally on the right side of up! |
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Bulkhead panels, a heap o' scuppers, and plans to boot. |
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Mortise and tenons, hopefully with the wherewithal to withstand a bum or two. |